Most terriers these days (those that require Handstrippin of the topcoat), eg Cairn Terrier, Scottish Terrier, Sealyham Terrier, Miniature Schnauzer, Airedale Terrier, Welsh Terrier, Lakeland Terrier, West Highland White Terrier etc, etc, are all being clippered/shaved. Clipperin results in very soft topcoat. Shavin also loses the color & shine in the banded hairs, also causin the fur to be curly wirly when grown a lil' longer. Because the topcoat is never plucked off from root to end, all that's left after shavin is the undercoat, which is not waterproof & feels soft to the touch.
Handstrippin a coat on the other hand, results in maintainin the original coat color, eg a Dark Salt & Pepper MS' coat will remain dark, rather than fade to a very light shade of grey if its bein shaved. Coat will also not outgrow into a curly-wirly state. It'll be straight due to its harsh texture. Because it is harsh & waterproof, the color is retained & will look healthy with shine. Groomin for a Stripped MS will also not be as often as compared to a clippered one.
Thus, I've received countless comments that my coat is "very dry". But this is obviously not the case as the correct word to describe it would be 'harsh'. A Miniature Schnauzer should never look toyish with soft coat. Altho' most owners would prefer to have the coat soft as it feels more 'huggable' like a soft-toy. Clipperin a MS would also be more cost-affordable in the long run than sendin to a groomer for strippin.
Handstrippin also does good for the skin. Over 3 yrs, I've yet to encounter a single schnauzer bump on me, which I highly believe is due to my coat bein' stripped on a regular basis. However, it is definitely not Mom's preference to strip me to a total state of baldness via sectional strippin. This is due to the reason that a dog's coat is very vital & of outmost importance to protectin our skin from wealther elements (direct sunrays), insect bites (ticks, ants, mozzies, etc), environmental bacteria on floors etc.
Hence, Mom always makes sure I'm not stripped to a state of baldness, even though she'll end up with a not-so-even length of fur for my topcoat (instead of a Tight-Jacket), as she likes it @ a longer length @ 'bout 7-10cm to protect us again mozzie bites etc as we're all not on any Heartworm preventive pills nor any jabs. To keep it lookin neat, she'll simply roll it, and card it to remove my undercoat.
Many ppl have the misconception that strippin will result in VERY SOFT teddy-bear like fur & yet still maintainin original color & will be Straight. The main purpose of handstrippin a coat is to achieve a hard, wiry outer coat & close undercoat - please refer below for more infomation.
this is latest-me
so far, the only body-part dat is clippered r my ears, which is y they're very grey & soft
so far, the only body-part dat is clippered r my ears, which is y they're very grey & soft
close-up
length of my current topcoat. a stripped coat is never curly-wirly when grown
undercoat - dull & brownish in color. cardin 'em out will enhance the natural color (as above)
Miniature Schnauzer Breed Standard
General Appearance
The Miniature Schnauzer is a robust, active dog of terrier type, resembling his larger cousin, the Standard Schnauzer, in general appearance, and of an alert, active disposition. Faults - Type - Toyishness, ranginess or coarseness.
Size, Proportion, Substance
Size - From 12 to 14 inches. He is sturdily built, nearly square in proportion of body length to height with plenty of bone, and without any suggestion of toyishness. Disqualifications - Dogs or bitches under 12 inches or over 14 inches.
Head
Eyes - Small, dark brown and deep-set. They are oval in appearance and keen in expression. Faults - Eyes light and/or large and prominent in appearance. Ears - When cropped, the ears are identical in shape and length, with pointed tips. They are in balance with the head and not exaggerated in length. They are set high on the skull and carried perpendicularly at the inner edges, with as little bell as possible along the outer edges. When uncropped, the ears are small and V-shaped, folding close to the skull.
Eyes - Small, dark brown and deep-set. They are oval in appearance and keen in expression. Faults - Eyes light and/or large and prominent in appearance. Ears - When cropped, the ears are identical in shape and length, with pointed tips. They are in balance with the head and not exaggerated in length. They are set high on the skull and carried perpendicularly at the inner edges, with as little bell as possible along the outer edges. When uncropped, the ears are small and V-shaped, folding close to the skull.
Head strong and rectangular, its width diminishing slightly from ears to eyes, and again to the tip of the nose. The forehead is unwrinkled. The topskull is flat and fairly long. The foreface is parallel to the topskull, with a slight stop, and it is at least as long as the topskull. The muzzle is strong in proportion to the skull; it ends in a moderately blunt manner, with thick whiskers which accentuate the rectangular shape of the head. Faults - Head coarse and cheeky. The teeth meet in a scissors bite. That is, the upper front teeth overlap the lower front teeth in such a manner that the inner surface of the upper incisors barely touches the outer surface of the lower incisors when the mouth is closed. Faults - Bite - Undershot or overshot jaw. Level bite.
Neck, Topline, Body
Neck - strong and well arched, blending into the shoulders, and with the skin fitting tightly at the throat. Body short and deep, with the brisket extending at least to the elbows. Ribs are well sprung and deep, extending well back to a short loin. The underbody does not present a tucked up appearance at the flank. The backline is straight; it declines slightly from the withers to the base of the tail. The withers form the highest point of the body. The overall length from chest to buttocks appears to equal the height at the withers. Faults - Chest too broad or shallow in brisket. Hollow or roach back.
Tail set high and carried erect. It is docked only long enough to be clearly visible over the backline of the body when the dog is in proper length of coat. Fault - Tail set too low.
Forequarters
Forelegs are straight and parallel when viewed from all sides. They have strong pasterns and good bone. They are separated by a fairly deep brisket which precludes a pinched front. The elbows are close, and the ribs spread gradually from the first rib so as to allow space for the elbows to move close to the body. Fault - Loose elbows.
The sloping shoulders are muscled, yet flat and clean. They are well laid back, so that from the side the tips of the shoulder blades are in a nearly vertical line above the elbow. The tips of the blades are placed closely together. They slope forward and downward at an angulation which permits the maximum forward extension of the forelegs without binding or effort. Both the shoulder blades and upper arms are long, permitting depth of chest at the brisket.
Feet short and round (cat feet) with thick, black pads. The toes are arched and compact.
Hindquarters
The hindquarters have strong-muscled, slanting thighs. They are well bent at the stifles. There is sufficient angulation so that, in stance, the hocks extend beyond the tail. The hindquarters never appear overbuilt or higher than the shoulders. The rear pasterns are short and, in stance, perpendicular to the ground and, when viewed from the rear, are parallel to each other. Faults - Sickle hocks, cow hocks, open hocks or bowed hindquarters.
Coat
Double, with hard, wiry, outer coat and close undercoat. The head, neck, ears, chest, tail, and body coat must be plucked. When in show condition, the body coat should be of sufficient length to determine texture. Close covering on neck, ears and skull. Furnishings are fairly thick but not silky. Faults - Coat too soft or too smooth and slick in appearance.
Color
The recognized colors are salt and pepper, black and silver and solid black. All colors have uniform skin pigmentation, i.e. no white or pink skin patches shall appear anywhere on the dog.
Salt and Pepper - The typical salt and pepper color of the topcoat results from the combination of black and white banded hairs and solid black and white unbanded hairs, with the banded hairs predominating. Acceptable are all shades of salt and pepper, from light to dark mixtures with tan shadings permissible in the banded or unbanded hair of the topcoat. In salt and pepper dogs, the salt and pepper mixture fades out to light gray or silver white in the eyebrows, whiskers, cheeks, under throat, inside ears, across chest, under tail, leg furnishings, and inside hind legs. It may or may not also fade out on the underbody. However, if so, the lighter underbody hair is not to rise higher on the sides of the body than the front elbows.
Black and Silver - The black and silver generally follows the same pattern as the salt and pepper. The entire salt and pepper section must be black. The black color in the topcoat of the black and silver is a true rich color with black undercoat. The stripped portion is free from any fading or brown tinge and the underbody should be dark.
Black - Black is the only solid color allowed. Ideally, the black color in the topcoat is a true rich glossy solid color with the undercoat being less intense, a soft matting shade of black. This is natural and should not be penalized in any way. The stripped portion is free from any fading or brown tinge. The scissored and clippered areas have lighter shades of black. A small white spot on the chest is permitted, as is an occasional single white hair elsewhere on the body.
Disqualifications - Color solid white or white striping, patching, or spotting on the colored areas of the dog, except for the small white spot permitted on the chest of the black.
The body coat color in salt and pepper and black and silver dogs fades out to light gray or silver white under the throat and across the chest. Between them there exists a natural body coat color. Any irregular or connecting blaze or white mark in this section is considered a white patch on the body, which is also a disqualification.
Gait
The trot is the gait at which movement is judged. When approaching, the forelegs, with elbows close to the body, move straight forward, neither too close nor too far apart. Going away, the hind legs are straight and travel in the same planes as the forelegs.
Note - It is generally accepted that when a full trot is achieved, the rear legs continue to move in the same planes as the forelegs, but a very slight inward inclination will occur. It begins at the point of the shoulder in front and at the hip joint in the rear. Viewed from the front or rear, the legs are straight from these points to the pads. The degree of inward inclination is almost imperceptible in a Miniature Schnauzer that has correct movement. It does not justify moving close, toeing in, crossing, or moving out at the elbows.
Viewed from the side, the forelegs have good reach, while the hind legs have strong drive, with good pickup of hocks. The feet turn neither inward nor outward.
Faults - Single tracking, sidegaiting, paddling in front, or hackney action. Weak rear action.
Temperament
The typical Miniature Schnauzer is alert and spirited, yet obedient to command. He is friendly, intelligent and willing to please. He should never be overaggressive or timid.
Disqualifications
Dogs or bitches under 12 inches or over 14 inches.Color solid white or white striping, patching, or spotting on the colored areas of the dog, except for the small white spot permitted on the chest of the black.The body coat color in salt and pepper and black and silver dogs fades out to light gray or silver white under the throat and across the chest. Between them there exists a natural body coat color. Any irregular or connecting blaze or white mark in this section is considered a white patch on the body, which is also a disqualification.
Approved January 15,
1991 Effective February 27, 1991
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